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Managing Arthritis in Dogs

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Arthritis is a common problem in older dogs, especially the larger breeds, and though there isn’t a cure for the condition, it can often be managed. The goal is to keep your dog comfortable and moving and maintain a good quality of life.

What is Osteoarthritis?

Also known as Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD), osteoarthritis (or arthritis, for short) is the progressive increase of inflammation in the joints caused by cartilage deterioration. In young, healthy animals, cartilage acts as a cushion in the joints and allows smooth movement through a full range of motion. However, when animals develop arthritis, the cartilage cushion begins to break down, often due to old age, injury, repetitive stress, or disease. Arthritis can occur in any joint, but it is most commonly seen in the limbs and lower spine. 

While any dog can develop arthritis, especially as they age, certain factors put your dog at higher risk. These include:

  • Large breeds
  • Obesity
  • Repetitive stress from athletic activities
  • Injuries such as fractures or ligament tears
  • Infections such as Lyme Disease
  • Poor nutrition
  • Poor conformation
  • Genetics

 

Signs of Osteoarthritis in Dogs

While arthritis might be difficult to detect in its early stages, middle-aged and older dogs should be closely monitored for signs such as:

  • Stiffness
  • Difficulty getting up
  • Lethargy
  • Reluctance to participate in previous activities
  • Weight gain
  • Irritability or changes in behavior
  • Pain when being touched
  • Difficulty posturing to urinate or defecate 
  • Having accidents in the house
  • Loss of muscle tone over the limbs and spine

 

Managing Osteoarthritis in Dogs

Dog owners can take preventative measures to support good joint health such as managing their dog’s weight and keeping toe nails trimmed to reduce strain on the limbs and joints. 

But even if your dog has already been diagnosed with arthritis, continue to take him for walks and make sure he has plenty of outdoor time, as movement can help to reduce stiffness. Just be sure to watch for signs of lethargy or pain to make sure you aren’t overdoing it. 

Since nutrition plays a key role in joint health, feeding a species appropriate diet is important. Adding joint-supporting supplements may also make a noticeable difference in your pet’s comfort level. Glucosamine has been well studied and is a proven joint supplement that can help to heal damaged connective tissue and relieve pain. Our Su-Per Glucosamine Powder for Dogs is a readily absorbable form of glucosamine that provides key nutrients for the production of natural body lubricants. 

MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) is another well-documented supplement for arthritis, and our MSM Ultra Pure Powder for Dogs is made from 99.9% pure MSM Sulfur, derived from DMSO (dimethylsulfoxide). This supplement reduces inflammation and enhances circulation, making it a great option for managing arthritis. 

A third option is our Su-Per MSM Blend Powder for Dogs which comes as an organic compound. For added support, consider using one of our MSM supplements in combination with our Glucosamine product.

 

Sources

Osteoarthritis in Dogs—Signs and Symptoms

How to Help an Older Dog with Arthritis and Other Mobility Problems

Treating Scours in Calves

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If there’s one thing ranchers don’t like to see, it’s scours in their newborn calves. Characterized by watery diarrhea, scours isn’t a disease in and of itself, but rather a symptom associated with several different diseases or other factors. No matter the cause though, scours prevents the absorption of fluids from the intestines, causing rapid dehydration. Due to a combination of dehydration, acidosis, and loss of electrolytes, it’s one of the leading causes of death in calves.

Causes of Scours

There are two main categories associated with the development of scours: A.) noninfectious causes and B.) infectious causes. Identifying the category for your calf will be important for possible prevention in the rest of your herd. 

Non-infectious causes are usually related to poor nutrition in the cow, especially during the final months of gestation. Cows lacking in nutrition may also produce poorer quality colostrum, which in turn, can lead to scours in their calves. Other non-infectious causes include muddy, unsanitary, or crowded environmental conditions or extreme weather. 

Infectious causes of scours include bacterial agents such as Escherichia Coli, Salmonella spp. and Clostridium perfringens; viruses such as Rotavirus, Coronavirus, BVD virus, or IBR virus; protozoal parasites like Cryptosporidium Coccidia; or yeasts and molds. 

Treating Scours

Regardless of the cause, scours can be treated similarly in all calves and the primary focus should address dehydration, acidosis, and electrolyte loss. Fluids are typically given by mouth and your veterinarian can be consulted regarding administration of electrolytes. Since most dehydrated calves also experience hypothermia, they will often need an external heat source such as heat lamps or they may need to be moved to a warm barn. 

One of the most common mistakes ranchers make is waiting too long to give oral electrolytes or not giving them often enough to calves affected by scours. If

administered early enough and on a frequent basis, fluids can help the calf to maintain strength and continue nursing. 

In addition to giving electrolytes, you can also supplement with ScoursGuard for Calves which contains beneficial probiotics to address acidosis. A completely safe and natural compound, this product has proven to stop scours in its tracks. To administer ScoursGuard, use 1 quart of warm water or milk heated to 98 degrees Fahrenheit and 2 tablespoons of clean white sugar (if using milk, leave out the sugar). Add 2 tablespoons of ScoursGuard and mix thoroughly. Feed to calves in a bottle or for older calves, in a bucket. Since this product has no taste or odor, they won’t balk at drinking or eating it. ScoursGuard can also be fed free choice to your calves, as they seem to know what’s good for them.

With scours, quick attention and treatment may mean the difference between life and death, especially with newborn calves, so it’s crucial to intervene as quickly as possible. With proper treatment, many calves can and do make a full recovery.

 

Sources

Calf Scours: Causes, Prevention, and Treatment

Treat Calf Scours Early for Best Results

Lyme Disease in Horses

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If you live in the Northeast or certain parts of the Midwest in the U.S., your horse may be at higher risk for contracting Lyme disease—a bacterial infection transmitted by deer ticks (also known as black-legged ticks). Lyme disease gets its name from Lyme, Connecticut, where it was first identified in the 1970’s. Since that time, the disease has been studied in both humans and animals.

In 2003, researchers at Cornell University conducted research on Lyme disease in horses and reported that 50% of horses in the Northeastern United States tested positive for exposure to Lyme disease.

Diagnosis and Symptoms

Lyme disease can be a tricky diagnosis in both humans and horses for several reasons. Symptoms may not show up for six weeks or more, and because the disease often mimics other conditions such as osteoarthritis, rhabdomyolsis, or EPM, it may be easy to misdiagnose. To further complicate issues, not all infected horses will show symptoms.

With that said, the most common symptoms of Lyme disease include:

  • low grade fever;
  • muscle tenderness;
  • muscle wasting;
  • weight loss;
  • depressed or irritable attitude;
  • stiff or uncoordinated gait;
  • swollen joints;
  • shifting lameness;
  • lethargy;
  • sensitivity to sound and touch; and
  • uveitis.

It’s important to note that these symptoms may stem from the bacterial infection, itself, or they may come from the body’s immune response to the infection.

What to Do if You Find a Tick on Your Horse

It’s important to check your horse for ticks on a daily basis and remove any ticks you find as it typically takes at least 16-24 hours for a tick to transmit the disease.

If you do find a tick on your horse (or yourself), do not grasp it between your thumb and finger and pull it free, as this may force material from the tick into the skin. Instead, grasp the tick with tweezers as close to the skin surface as possible and pull straight up with a slow, steady force. Once the tick has been removed, use an antiseptic such as rubbing alcohol on the bite. 

Additionally, you can take the removed tick to your veterinarian who can submit it for testing. If the tick tests positive for B. burgdorferi, that means your horse has been exposed to the bacteria which causes Lyme disease (but this doesn’t necessarily mean he’ll develop symptoms). 

Treating Lyme Disease

Veterinarians typically treat Lyme disease with antibiotics like tetracycline and doxycycline and they may also suggest anti-inflammatories such as Banamine or bute to ease your horse’s discomfort, but because horses can develop recurring symptoms due to Lyme disease, an herbal product such as our Lymex can help protect your horse in the long run. This signature product can be given in conjunction with traditional treatments as well. 

Lymex supports the horse’s immune system and aids in relieving symptoms like inflammation, lethargy, as well as muscle and nerve pain. If used on a continual basis, this formula can help prevent Lyme flare-ups. 

If you suspect Lyme disease in your horse, contact your veterinarian right away. As with many diseases, the sooner it is treated, the better chance your horse will have for a full recovery. 

 

Sources

Lyme Disease in Horses

The Lowdown on Lyme Disease in Horses

Lyme Disease Diagnosis and Treatment

The Benefits of Natural Dewormers

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Intestinal parasites seem to be a fact of life for our animals that we, as guardians, must deal with on a continual basis. If you ask traditional veterinarians, many will recommend using chemical dewormers but the problem is, that after decades of overuse, many of these dewormers are simply becoming ineffective. In other words, the parasites have grown resistant to them, which is obviously a substantial problem. To make matters worse, chemical dewormers can have dangerous side effects for our animals as well. These might include:

  • swollen glands or neck;
  • puffy lips and/or tongue;
  • noticeably red gum burns;
  • colic;
  • allergies;
  • skin reactions such as hives;
  • laminitis; and
  • damage to the immune system.

Overuse of chemical dewormers can possibly lead to kidney damage or even a condition known as toxic hepatitis, where the liver becomes overburdened and inflamed as a result of toxins.

Another concerning issue is the fact that chemical dewormers passed through manure can be dangerous to aquatic life and also negatively impact dung beetles and other microorganisms in the soil. 

The good news is that there are natural alternatives, made with herbs or other naturally occurring ingredients, which can be used in place of chemical dewormers in many instances. These natural dewormers work with the animal’s body and can even have added benefits aside from killing and expelling parasites. For instance, many of them help strengthen, instead of weaken, the immune system.

However, one difference between using chemical and natural deworming products is that, in most cases, you’ll need to use the natural products over a longer period of time versus a one-time chemical dewormer application several times a year. 

Our flagship product, WormGuard Plus SC, is an FDA approved food grade Diatomaceous Earth which consists of tiny phytoplankton mainly composed of amorphous hydrated silicates. When intestinal parasites come into contact with these tiny particles, their exoskeletons are pierced, and the waxy fats and lipids leak from the cuticle of the parasite resulting in fluid loss, dehydration, and death. WormGuard Plus SC, as well as all of our natural deworming products, work in a purely mechanical manner, so parasites are not able to develop an immunity to the ingredients as they can with chemical dewormers. Our natural deworming products are safe for small animals, such as rabbits and guinea pigs, all the way up to large animals, like cattle and horses, and they are 100% effective against intestinal parasites, including:

  • tapeworms;
  • large strongyles;
  • small strongyles;
  • pinworms;
  • intestinal threadworms;
  • bots; and 
  • ascarids.

WormGuard Plus SC also contains three lactic acid bacteria, Lactobacillus plantarum, Bifidobacterium species, and Lactobacillus acidophilus, which support healthy digestion, as well as pure Grape Seed extract for Vitamins E and C which help support the immune system.

Our other natural deworming products include Omni-WormGuard Plus, which contains the probiotics listed above plus an immune-boosting blend of vitamins and minerals, DiaGuard, a strictly pure food grade diatomaceous earth without any additives, and Omni WormGuard Plus for Senior Horses. 

So before automatically reaching for a chemical dewormer next time, consider using a natural product instead!

 

Sources

How Should I Manage My Horse After Worming

The Truth About Worms in Horses-the Whole Story

Wormers, Toxic Reaction & Natural Alternatives

Basic Care and Nutrition for Sheep

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Sheep are some of the easiest livestock to care for due to the fact that they’re easy to handle, can adapt to nearly any climate, don’t need much in the way of shelter, and can thrive even with minimal caretaking. However, that doesn’t mean you should turn your sheep out on pasture and let them completely fend for themselves. Before you get sheep, here is some important information to know about them.

Housing Sheep

Sheep need at least 1/4 to 1/2 acre of quality pasture per animal for optimal health. Since they have natural protection from the elements–a thick wool coat—they don’t necessarily need elaborate shelter, but providing a simple three-sided shed (4-6 square feet per animal) is often a good idea for further protection from harsh weather. 

As for containing them, electric fence, run 12-15 inches above the ground, with a second strand run a foot higher than the first, or grid wire mesh fencing works well. However, during breeding season, you will likely need a strong protective enclosure to keep predators out.

Adult Sheep Nutrition

Like cattle, sheep are ruminants with a compartmental stomach which allows them to eat plant material and retain it long enough to allow bacteria, protozoa, and fungi to break down and digest it. Plants are eaten quickly, regurgitated, re-chewed and swallowed; this is known as cud-chewing. Healthy, mature sheep will chew their cud for several hours daily.

Sheep need at least one gallon of clean water per 100 lbs of bodyweight daily and do best on a forage-based diet. However, poor quality pasture or hay may not provide enough nutrients to keep your sheep healthy, especially pregnant or nursing ewes. 

The easiest way to judge if your sheep are getting adequate energy in their diet is to use a body condition scoring system (BSC) with 1 being extremely thin and 5 being extremely obese. Palpate the amount of fat covering the spine to determine their score. Any sheep with a score of 1-2 will need more in the way of energy while those with a BSC score higher than 3.5 should be fed less. Remember to make all dietary changes slowly. 

Since sheep aren’t able to digest poor-quality protein as efficiently as cattle, supplementation may be necessary in some instances (such as with mature grass or hay or during winter). Alfalfa is often a good choice.

Like all livestock, sheep require major and trace minerals, including salt and can benefit from supplementation of our Icelandic Organic Kelp and Pure Unrefined Sea Salt. Sheep on mature pasture or winter range may develop a phosphorus deficiency and should be supplemented with grain or a phosphorus supplement such as defluorinated rock phosphate.

Additional Sheep Care

Because sheep are prone to parasites, deworming is often necessary. Our Omni-Wormguard Plus works to prevent parasites from overburdening your sheep and also contains probiotics for a healthy immune system. And speaking of probiotics, if you have to give antibiotics to your sheep for any reason, adding our ProGuard Probiotics will help to completely replenish those healthy gut bacteria in order to keep their immune system strong. 

 

Sources

Ten Commandments for Raising Healthy Sheep

Nutritional Requirements of Sheep

Supporting Your Horse’s Immune System

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The threat of illness and/or disease is always a concern for horse owners, but the good news is that all animals (including us) have a built-in natural form of protection. It’s called the immune system. Consisting of a collection of bodily structures and functions, the immune system’s job is to fight against viral, bacterial, and other potentially harmful invaders. 

When functioning properly, the immune system can easily identify threats and work to fight against them. However, problems arise when the immune system becomes  compromised due to a lack of proper nutrition, toxins, or other factors. A weakened immune system simply can’t stand up to threats like it was designed to do.

The following are some important ways we can support our horse’s natural defense mechanisms.

 

Monitor & Reduce Stress

While some stress is normal, especially for prey animals such as the horse, too much stress weakens the immune system. Here are a few tips for keeping it to a minimum:

  • Keep your horse with other horses or at least one companion animal such as a goat;
  • Limit or eliminate stall confinement;
  • Ensure your horse always has quality forage available;
  • Make sure your horse gets plenty of movement either in the pasture or through riding or other forms of exercise; and
  • Work to identify underlying sources of pain and address it on an ongoing basis, especially for older horses.

 

Provide a Horse-Healthy Diet

A species appropriate diet is always important for good health. Feed your horse a forage-based diet, based on quality grass hay. Ensure salt, vitamin, and mineral needs are met and always provide clean, fresh water. This can go a long ways in keeping the immune system functioning properly. 

 

Reduce Exposure to Toxins

Most toxins are invisible invaders which can easily slip under the radar, so it’s important we be aware and eliminate them whenever possible. For example, vaccines, chemical dewormers, and pharmaceutical drugs can overburden the immune system, so use these judiciously. 

By feeding organic or non-GMO products whenever possible, you can reduce your horse’s exposure to harmful pesticides and herbicides. Using natural fly sprays and other naturally derived grooming products will also reduce your horse’s exposure to toxins. 

 

Supplement with Immune Boosters

Certain nutrients and herbs naturally support the immune system and are great to add to your horse’s diet when you feel an additional boost is needed. Our Immunoboost powder is formulated to strengthen the horse’s immune system while also boosting the immune response to toxins and pathogens in the body. We strongly recommend this product for performance horses and older horses to maintain a healthy immune system during periods of stress.

 

Vyrex is another immune-supporting supplement we offer as part of our signature herbal line. This supplement works as a preventative, naturally supporting the immune system and consists of a blend of organic herbs, including garlic, fenugreek, echinacea, eleuthero, and astragalus. 

Nature has provided the horse with its own protective system, but as horse owners, it’s our job to ensure that system stays healthy and strong! 

Equine Metabolic Syndrome

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Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS), an endocrine disorder resulting in the dysfunction of hormone production and regulation, has become all too common these days. This is likely due to several reasons, including modern horse management, increased environmental toxins, and the prevalence of high-NSC (non-structural carbohydrate) pasture grasses, which are more suitable for fattening up cattle. Some EMS conditions include Insulin Resistance (IR) and PPID (formerly known as Equine Cushing’s Disease) causes the horse’s pituitary gland, which utilizes hormones to control body functions, to work overtime. This can lead to a variety of problems for horses, ranging from unexplained laminitis to abnormal fat deposits.

EMS is most commonly seen in “easy keeper” breeds such as Morgans, Andalusions, Arabians, Paso Finos, ponies, miniature horses, and warmbloods, and research has shown that some breeds are at a higher risk for developing EMS due to genetic predisposition.

Horses with EMS often develop fat deposits (often along the crest, shoulders, loin, above the eyes, and around the tail head), insulin resistance, and a predisposition to laminitis. In fact, an episode of laminitis is often the first indicator that a horse may be dealing with EMS. Overweight horses are at increased risk of developing EMS, but not every EMS horse is necessarily overweight.

Diagnosing and Managing EMS

Because EMS affects a horse’s insulin levels, it can be diagnosed with simple blood tests performed by your veterinarian. Two inexpensive tests are currently recommended: the oral sugar test (most commonly used) and the insulin tolerance test.

Once a horse has been diagnosed with EMS, dietary and management changes will play a critical role in healing. First and foremost, the amount of sugars and carbohydrates (NSC’s) in the diet should be reduced in order to keep glucose levels down. A grass hay-based diet is best and grain should be taken out of the diet completely. However, pasture often poses the biggest threat to EMS horses, so depending on the severity of your horse’s condition, changes will likely need to be made as far as grazing goes. Prevention is paramount, so eliminating grazing all together may be the best solution.

Some other alternatives are:

  • Restricting turnout to a dry lot or small paddock with little or no grass;
  • Turnout limited to nighttime or early morning only (when sugar in grasses is lowest); or
  • Using a grazing muzzle on normal pasture.

Hay should contain NSC levels below 12% (10% for more severe cases); however, the only way to know your hay’s NSC levels is by testing it. If you can’t test, soaking the hay for at least half an hour and then draining it can reduce NSC levels substantially. 

Many holistic practitioners believe toxins (especially glyphosate) play a role in the development of EMS, so it would make sense to reduce your horse’s toxic load (i.e.—feeding organic or non-GMO feeds and hay). Detoxifying herbs or supplements can help as well. 

Other supplements which can help manage EMS include: 

  • Osoleen Glucose Support: herbal formula designed to aid in resetting insulin metabolism by supporting healthy metabolic function;
  • Organic Chasteberry Powder: herb which effectively supports the normal functioning of the pituitary gland, correcting hormonal disturbances;
  • Super Mag Pro Powder: mineral essential for normal secretion of insulin and the uptake of glucose; helps break down fatty deposits common with EMS.
  • Organic Icelandic Kelp: Our Sea Kelp is phenomenal for EMS horses. Kelp not only has ample iodine, which many metabolic horses are lacking, but it also helps regulate abnormal hormonal function commonly associated with EMS horses.

EMS can be quite serious, especially if left unchecked, but that doesn’t mean it has to be death sentence. If properly managed, many EMS horses can go on to enjoy long, happy lives. 

 

 

Sources:

Understanding Equine Metabolic Syndrome

Identifying and Managing Equine Metabolic Syndrome

Equine Metabolic Syndrome

The Basics of Rabbit Care

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Who doesn’t love a cute little bunny? We often see them at farm stores, especially in the spring, but there are some important things to know before you decide to take a rabbit home.

Living Arrangements

One of the biggest mistakes people make is thinking that domestic rabbits are no different from their wild counterparts. However, this just isn’t true, primarily because domestic rabbits don’t tolerate extreme temperatures well. Therefore, the safest place for your domestic rabbit is indoors. Another reason to house your rabbit inside is to keep them safe from predators; just the sight or sound of a nearby predator can cause enough stress to give a rabbit a heart attack. 

A second misconception about rabbits is that they do well in small cages. On the contrary, rabbits need space to hop around freely. This could be a large cage, a puppy pen, or a bunny-proof room. If kept in a cage, it’s important to let your rabbit out for exercise for several hours each day. 

By nature, rabbits like to chew, so if yours is given free rein of the house or a room— even for a few hours—make sure to cover all ground-level wires with plastic sleeves or flex tubing. Baseboards can be covered with plastic guards, 2×4’s or furring strips. Take care to keep dangerous products, such as cleaning supplies, insecticides, etc. out of your rabbit’s reach and also be aware that certain plants such as aloe, azaleas, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, as well as some other plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.

One nice thing about rabbits, is that, like cats, they can be trained to use a litter box. Start by placing a litter box in their cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit is allowed to roam your house, it’s a good idea to have multiple litter boxes. Litter products made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus are best, but be aware that rabbits enjoy spending time in their litter boxes so clean them often!

Diet

A rabbit’s diet should consist of primarily hay. Alfalfa is suitable for

young rabbits, but adults do best with timothy, grass, or oat hay. Using a hay feeder or net is a good idea since it will keep the hay clean and dry. You can supplement your rabbit’s hay with a few fresh fruits and veggies as well as pelleted feed. Of course, fresh water should always be available. To keep your rabbit healthy and parasite free, supplement with Wormguard Plus SC at 1 teaspoon 3 times a week. (1/2 teaspoon 3 times a week for small rabbits). WormGuard Plus SC is not only a great all natural dewormer, but it also contains grape seed extract and probiotics to keep your rabbit healthy.

Fruits and veggies your rabbit my enjoy include:

  • Basil
  • Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly)
  • Celery
  • Dandelion leaves
  • Mint
  • Apples (without stems or seeds)
  • Strawberries
  • Peaches
  • Melon

Note: Iceberg lettuce isn’t safe to feed rabbits (another misconception).

Something to keep in mind is that rabbits are social animals and do much better with a friend. So if you’re going to adopt one, it’s best to adopt a pair. 

 

Sources

What to Feed Your Pet Rabbit

How to Care for a Pet Rabbit

How to Care for Domestic Rabbits

Basic Llama and Alpaca Care

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Llamas and alpacas, both members of the camel family, have been used for transportation and fleece for several thousand years. Though some people get these two animals confused, several notable differences exist between the species including their size, type of fleece, facial shape, and disposition. Of the two, llamas are larger, standing at around 47 inches at the shoulder and weighing about 250 pounds. Alpacas, on the other hand, stand at approximately 35 inches at the shoulder and weigh around 130 pounds. 

While llamas sometimes get a bad reputation for spitting, kicking, or being sullen, well-treated llamas are typically friendly, social, and calm. Compared to llamas, alpacas are a much more timid animal. 

 

Pasture, Fencing, and Shelter

Like other livestock, llamas and alpacas do best when kept on ample pasture. If sufficient grass isn’t available, they will need grass hay. As with horses, make all feeding transitions slowly (including with different types of hay). Abrupt changes can create problems or even kill a llama or alpaca. 

Good fencing is a must with both species, but for different reasons. Llamas may test fencing limits by jumping, so they do best with at least a five foot fence. Alpacas aren’t typically jumpers but need to be kept safe from predators, so a woven wire or no-climb fence is best to use with them. 

Both llamas and alpacas should be kept with at least one other animal of the same species for their mental and emotional well-being. However, it’s safest to keep the sexes separate.

Though llamas and alpacas are hardy animals, they still need shelter—especially during hot weather. Inside the shelter, pea gravel, packed dirt, or clay make the best type of flooring since wood shavings or sand can get caught in their fleece. 

 

Nutritional Needs

As far as vitamin/mineral supplementation, llamas’ and alpacas’ needs are similar to other types of livestock. Our Icelandic Organic Kelp is always a good option for a multi-vitamin/mineral. Supplemental concentrates are usually only needed for growing, pregnant, or lactating animals, for those performing hard physical work, or for some elderly animals. 

Since llamas and alpacas are both prone to internal parasites (especially the meningeal worm, carried by white-tail deer), deworming is necessary. Our Omni-Wormguard Plus is a great natural alternative to chemical dewormers. We also carry WormGuard Plus Super Concentrate which includes probiotics to promote healthy digestion and grape seed extract to support a strong immune system.

Salt should be made available free choice at all times. 

 

Additional Llama and Alpaca Care

Both llamas and alpacas will need routine toenail trimming and occasional dental check-ups as well. A horse dentist can often work on your llama or alpaca’s teeth.

Finally, while classic llamas do not produce much fleece, wooly llamas need shearing every year or two. Alpacas, on the other hand, produce thick fleece and need annual spring shearing.

 

 

Sources

www.lostcreekllamas.com/basiccare.htm

www.carlisleveterinarian.com/basic-alpaca-care

http://palominoalpacafarm.com/?page_id=24

www.bhalpaca.com

https://www.bozedown-alpacas.co.uk/alpaca-care/alpaca-and-llama-teeth/

Cold Weather Care for Horses

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Horses are well-suited for winter for the most part, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have certain basic requirements. Here’s more information for horse guardians to ensure our horses stay comfortable and healthy during the coldest months of the year.

Forage

Securing quality hay should be a top priority for winter preparation. The minimum forage requirement is 1% of a horse’s body weight per day, but feeding around 2-3% better supports good digestive health. Not to mention, the process of digesting forage produces internal heat, making it the primary method of thermoregulation in cold weather. When temperatures get really cold, increase hay by 1.4% for each degree it drops below 18 degrees F. Another option is feeding hay free-choice.

Supplements

Good quality hay covers most dietary needs but still lacks some trace minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. Therefore, it’s important to provide these in a supplement of some kind. 

Our Icelandic Organic Kelp contains 60 trace minerals, micro nutrients, and many natural vitamins, and Organic Flaxseed is an excellent source of Omega-3’s. Whether horses are on hay or pasture, all need additional salt in their diet. Our Pure Unrefined Sea Salt is a great choice. 

Water

Horses need clean water year-round, of course, but in winter, when impaction colic is more common due to decreased water intake, it’s important to keep horses drinking. Adding a little extra salt into their feed bucket will encourage drinking but we should also ensure they have a non-frozen water source at all times. Using heated buckets or stock tank warmers can help keep water at a more preferable temperature as horses drink most readily when water is between 45-65 degrees F.

To Blanket or Not?

If allowed to do so, most horses grow an adequate winter coat which keeps them plenty warm. The hairs will actually “fluff up” during cold weather in a phenomenon known as piloerection. When we blanket horses with good winter coats, we’re actually flattening those hairs and preventing piloerection from occurring. Therefore, it’s usually best to leave horses without a blanket. The only exceptions would be for horses who don’t have a winter coat (such as one recently moved in from a warmer climate) or older, ill, or malnourished horses. 

Shelter

Though horses keep warm by eating hay and growing a good winter coat, having some type of shelter is still necessary, especially during windy or rainy conditions which can flatten the hair coat and cause the horse to lose body heat at an increased pace. While some horses may choose to be out in the elements, it’s always nice to have the option to get out of the weather!

Added Support for Seniors

Senior horses may need extra support in the form of pain relief, joint care, or digestive support during the winter months. Supplements we recommend include:

Additionally, if their teeth are in poor condition, they may have trouble chewing hay and will need a commercial or homemade senior feed which is best fed softened or as a mash.