Casie

You’ve likely heard the saying, No hoof, No horse, which is quite accurate. But the same could also be said of lungs: No lungs, No horse. Exercise-induced cough, allergies, and RAO (Recurrent Airway Obstruction) are all common conditions unfortunately, so it’s important we do everything we can to support our horse’s respiratory health.

Environment

Environment can be one of the biggest contributors to poor respiratory health. Horses kept indoors full or even part-time are more at risk for respiratory problems, simply because of exposure to dust and ammonia (from urine). Keeping horses outdoors is best, but in some boarding situations, you may not have much of a choice. 

If horses must be kept indoors, make sure stalls are well ventilated and install fans to keep air circulating. Select stall bedding such as hemp, peat moss, synthetic material, or even shredded newspaper as opposed to shavings or straw, which are dustier. Using stall mats can decrease the need for deep bedding.

It’s important to keep stalls clean and use products to reduce ammonia, but avoid mucking stalls, sweeping aisles, or cleaning the barn while horses are indoors. It’s also a good idea to house horses away from where hay is stored.

Diet

Hay can be a problem for some horses with impaired lung function, mainly because it harbors dust and mold particles. Choosing the highest quality hay you can find is important for all horses, but especially for those with lung conditions. Wetting, soaking, or steaming flakes before feeding can also help reduce dust. 

Avoid feeding large square or round bales, as horses tend to stick their noses inside as they eat, inhaling dust and mold particles. 

Oats and other grains contain dust, so opting for soaked hay pellets or other pelleted feeds (which can be wet down, if needed) might be a better idea for some horses. Additionally, avoid feeding directly from stall bedding, using a rubber tub or some other sort of ground feeder instead. 

Studies have shown that adding an Omega 3 source to your horse’s diet can also improve lung function. Our stone ground Organic Flaxseed is a great option. 

 

Herbal Support

A number of herbs also support healthy lung function in horses. Here are a few examples:

• Anise: natural expectorant and antispasmodic
• Astragalus: anti-inflammatory, immune-building, and antibacterial
• Cayenne: breaks up congested mucus
• Elecampane: soothes bronchial passages, expectorant for lung cleansing
• Lobelia: strong anti-spasmodic properties, expectorant with broncho-dilating effects
• Mullein: nourishes and strengthens the lungs
• Peppermint: anti-congestive, anti-spasmodic, and contains expectorant properties
• Stevia: anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and contained magnesium needed for lung function
• Thyme: expectorant, disinfectant, and antiseptic

The good news is that our Breezee Respiratory Support contains all of the above (organic) herbal ingredients. This product is also free of sugar and NSC’s, making it completely safe for horses with metabolic issues. 

As you can see, supporting our horses’ lung health often takes a multi-faceted approach, but many conditions can be successfully managed, allowing these horses to live long and happy lives. 

 

Sources

Feeding Horses with COPD

10 Ways to Help Horses with Heaves

8 Tips for Healthy Horse Lungs

Horses and horse shoes; the two go together like bread and butter, right? Not necessarily! Though shoes have long been the tradition, keeping your horse barefoot might actually be the better option. 

Of course, having a barefoot horse is not nearly as simple as just removing the shoes. Though you’ll likely save money in the long run, barefoot hooves still need regular maintenance, and strict attention should be paid to your horse’s diet. Environment and exercise also have a considerable effect on the overall health of the hooves and need to be taken into consideration. But the benefits of keeping your horse barefoot are well worth it. Here’s why:

Increased hoof circulation

Did you know that hooves are an important part of the horse’s circulatory system? It’s true! There are no muscles in the lower leg or hoof to help return blood

back to the heart, but each time the bottom of the hoof comes in contact with the ground (and bears weight), it pushes blood back up the leg. The frog acts as a vital part of this pumping mechanism. In fact, once shoes are removed, the frogs will often become fuller and larger within a matter of months (so long as the hooves are trimmed properly).

According blood flow studies performed by Dr. Robert Bowker, VMD, PhD, the horse’s foot gets at least twice as much circulation when barefoot on yielding terrain, compared to when wearing a metal shoe.

Increased shock absorption

Steel shoes don’t provide much (if anything) in the way of shock absorption, but barefoot hooves are quite capable as acting as natural shock absorbers. When horses are running or jumping (especially on hard ground), shock absorption becomes even more important because those concussive forces travel up the legs and into the body, affecting ligaments, tendons, and even bones. 

Better Grip

Have you ever had a shod horse slip on grass or pavement? It’s not uncommon. Properly trimmed barefoot hooves, however, have natural grip on nearly any surface. The back of the foot, with its leathery frog, bars that dig into the ground, and collateral grooves which gather material, can provide far more grip than any specialized shoe ever can. 

Proprioception

Big word, important meaning! Proprioception is the awareness of the position and movement of each part of your body. Recent research has shown that the hoof (specifically the back of the foot ) actually functions as a sensory organ, registering impact, temperature, vibration, and pain. Since shoes prevent the back of the foot from making contact with the ground, it makes sense that shod horses would have decreased proprioception, which can lead to stumbling or tripping.

 

Since barefoot hooves are trimmed and maintained differently than shod hooves, you’ll likely want to find a barefoot specialist to take over your horse’s hoof care. Or, with some education, training, and practice, you can even learn to do it! While trimming is still somewhat physically demanding, it’s not nearly as labor intensive as shoeing horses.

Like us, horses require a number of different minerals in order to maintain good health. Though many minerals are provided in grass, hay, and feeds, magnesium is one you might want to consider supplementing, especially in spring when fast-growing grasses become depleted of this mineral.

Magnesium is involved in many different functions in the body: It’s an essential component of bones and teeth. In fact, up to 60% of the body’s magnesium is found in the skeletal system, but only 30% of that is available to be used by other parts of the body, when needed. Magnesium works alongside calcium in nerve transmission and muscle function. Additionally, magnesium protects against inflammation and free-radical damage in the body. 

For horses with Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS) or insulin resistance (IR), adequate magnesium levels are vital for normal secretion of insulin and uptake of glucose. Magnesium can help break down the fatty deposits these horses often develop along the neckline (cresty neck) or rump. 

Balance is important with all minerals, and magnesium needs to be balanced with calcium since they compete with each other for absorption. As stated above, these two minerals work together in the muscles—calcium, in charge of muscle contraction and magnesium helping with muscle relaxation. Horses typically need a calcium to magnesium ratio of anywhere between 2-3:1; however, IR and EMS horses may benefit from a ratio as high as a 1:1. 

If your horse displays any of the following symptoms, he may be in need of more magnesium:

• irritability;
• hypersensitivity (when being brushed, saddled, or even touched);
• unable to relax, physically or mentally;
• muscle twitching or spasms;
• doesn’t tolerate long periods of work;
• difficulty with collection;
• history of tying up;
• excessive spookiness;
• painful heat in mares;
• teeth grinding;
• irregular heartbeat or pounding heart;
• anxiety/ nervousness; and/or
• gait disturbances.

Horses in hard work or under stress will use up more of their magnesium stores and therefore need supplementation. Magnesium can be lost through sweat and urine, and horses deficient in magnesium may crave salt, leading them to excessively lick salt blocks. Calcium-rich diets (such as those high in alfalfa) can easily create a calcium-magnesium imbalance, necessitating magnesium supplementation as well.

The good news is that magnesium is easy and affordable to supplement, and toxicity situations are rare.

Our Super-Mag Pro Powder was rated as the best magnesium supplement by Horse Journal. It comes as a 4-pound bag and contains 100% Magnesium Proteinate.

Additionally, flaxseed is not only a great source of Omega-3’s, but it’s also high in magnesium, with one cup containing 658 mg of magnesium. Our Organic Flaxseed is ground just prior to shipping to ensure maximum potency and freshness.

We encourage you to take a look at your horse’s diet, and determine if magnesium supplementation might be needed. It may make a big difference in your horse’s health and attitude!

 

 

Sources

Sources of Magnesium Including Whole Foods

Supplemental Magnesium for Horses

The Importance of Magnesium in Horse Diets

Magnesium: The Mineral Superhero

Spring is an anticipated time of year, especially for the gardener. And whether your idea of gardening is a single, raised-box bed or planting crops on a quarter acre plot of land, a little planning will go a long ways in helping your garden to be successful.

 

Pick the Right Spot

Location, location, location—this doesn’t just apply to real estate. A sunny location is a must as most vegetables need at least six hours of sunlight per day. Likewise, you’ll want to choose an area that isn’t prone to flooding or that tends to dry out too much.

 

Make your Bed!

Early in the planning process, you’ll need to decide which type of garden bed is best for you. Raised beds can be great for smaller gardens, plus they tend to be easier on the back and work well if you have pets that might dig in your garden.

For more limited space, pots will work just as well, and they’re nice because you can move them, if needed. While not every plant likes a pot, lettuce, peppers, herbs, and garlic all do well in them. 

Of course, the most common type of vegetable garden is planted directly in the soil. While this may require more initial work with tilling, in-ground gardens allow you to grow a wide variety of vegetables. 

 

It’s All About the Soil

Sixth grade science taught us that plants need more than just sunlight to grow—they also need water, space, and healthy soil. Unfortunately, due to overuse and widespread chemical application, much of the soil used for agriculture today has been stripped of its nutrients. This results in bland-tasting and nutritionally-deficient produce. However, adding a product such as our Organic Soil Treatment will ensure plant nutrient needs are met as well as healthier soil.  

Enriching soil with compost can also boost nutrient levels, increase the soil’s ability to hold water and air, and prevent erosion by binding the soil together. And though it takes a little time to get started, our EcoGuard Compost Starter can cut composting time by as much as 50%!

 

Watering

We all know that plants need water, but when planning your garden, remember that this will likely be a daily task (if you don’t set up automatic waterers). Plant your garden in a water-accessible location, and only plant as much as you’re prepared to water!

 

Warding Off Pests (Naturally)

If you have any experience with gardening at all, then you know you’re not the only one looking forward to feasting on those vegetables. Aphids, worms, mites, and all sorts of little critters may show up uninvited. Using a homemade oil spray insecticide can prevent this problem. Use one cup vegetable oil mixed with one tablespoon of a mild soap such Dr. Bronner’s castille soap (cover and shake). Then mix two teaspoons of this mixture with a quart of water when ready to apply. 

Another option is a diatomaceous earth product such as our Ant Die, which can be sprinkled around plants or directly on foliage to help control not only ants, but other crawling insects, as well as snails and slugs. 

Gardening can be fun and it’s also an inexpensive way to supplement your family’s diet with healthy, organic vegetables. So what are you waiting for? Get growing!

 

Sources

Vegetable Gardening for Beginners

How to Start a Vegetable Garden

8 Natural and Homemade Insecticides: Save Your Garden Without Killing the Earth

When it comes to senior horses, most have “been there, done that.” It’s one of the reasons we love them, right? But because of their life experiences, older horses also come with their own set of special needs, one of them likely being joint care. 

Just as in humans, arthritis is often a fact of life for senior horses. And depending on what the horse has done for most of his/her life, the level of severity can vary. While a trail or pleasure horse may have minor joint aches and pains, a retired barrel horse or jumper may have more severe joint problems. 

Arthritis is a general term used to describe degeneration of articular surfaces of the joint caused by inflammation. When the inflammation becomes chronic, it leads to permanent deterioration of joint cartilage. It’s not uncommon for older horses to experience arthritis of the “knees”, hocks, or pasterns, all of which endure continual concussive forces throughout their lifetime.

If left unchecked, inflammatory enzymes will break down the synovial fluid in the joints, which leads to a vicious cycle of inflammation, causing pain, stiffness, and damage to the cartilage. 

While arthritis can be “cured”, there are several proactive steps you can take to combat inflammation and make your senior horse more comfortable. The earlier you begin these steps, the better.

• Feed an anti-inflammatory diet, high in omega-3 fatty acids (fresh grass, hay, flaxseed, chia seeds, flax oil, etc.) and low in omega-6 fatty acids (grains, vegetable oils).
• Add a joint supplement into your horse’s diet. Glucosamine, chondroitin, hyaluronic acid, and MSM are all good choices, and a combination product such as our new Super Sound Plus Powder will ensure total joint support. Herbs are another option, and our Herbiflex contains a natural blend of anti-inflammatory herbs including boswellia, fenugreek, turmeric, and yucca. 
• Provide natural vitamin E to horses not grazing green pasture in order to support immune function, muscles, and nerve tissues. 1,000 to 2,000 IU per day is sufficient for most horses, but hard-working or stressed horses can be fed 3,000 to 5,000 IU per day. 
• Keep your senior horse at a healthy weight. Overweight horses will have added strain on their joints as well as increased inflammation. Conversely, underweight horses may have nutrient deficiencies and weaker immune systems which can also lead to inflammation. 
• Maintain your senior horse’s hooves. Long or unbalanced hooves place added strain on the joints which can worsen arthritic symptoms. 
• Keep your senior horse moving! Whether riding, lunging, or just allowing your horse plenty of pasture time, movement will increase circulation, reduce inflammation, and nourish joints.

Many horse owners turn to Bute (Phenylbutazone) for pain relief. Bute belongs to a group of medications known a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) and have side effects such as stomach or colon ulcers and can also cause kidney damage. More recent research has found that Bute can slow the production of joint cartilage and delay bone healing. Bute also interferes with thyroid function. Our organic herbal formula “Bjute” is a great pain relieving alternative and can be used long term without the harmful side effects associated with using Bute.

Sources:

Dealing With Arthritis in Senior Horses

Coping With Arthritis in Horses

Because of their unique physiology and ability to regulate their body temperatures, chickens tend to do better in cold weather than in hot. But this doesn’t mean they don’t need little extra care in winter.

If you live in an area prone to cold weather, you are better off keeping a hardier breed of chicken. The best cold-hardy breeds include Ameraucana, Ancona, Black Australorps, Black Giant, Blue Andalusian, Brahma, Buff Orpingtons, Cochins, Delaware, Dominique, Langshan, New Hampshire, Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Red, Russian Orloff, Speckled Sussex and Wyandottes.

But no matter the breed, here are a few cold weather tips all chickens can benefit from:

1.) Don’t use heat lamps in your coop. Many new chicken owners are tempted to do this, but as stated previously, chickens can actually tolerate cold temperatures fairly well. Heat lamps pose a fire hazard and may also cause chickens to have trouble acclimating to colder weather. 

2.) If you do feel the need to heat your coop, however, use a safe heat source such as a flat panel radiant heater. Remember that there should not be an extreme difference between inside and outside temperatures. 

3.) Likewise, don’t over-insulate your coop. This limits air circulation and increases humidity, which can lead to frostbite. It can also lead to ammonia buildup from droppings which can be harmful to your chickens’ lungs. No, you don’t want your coop to be drafty, but you do want adequate ventilation—even in cold weather. 

4.) Ensure your chickens have unfrozen water to drink. Chickens cannot get enough water by pecking at snow or ice. You can purchase a heated waterer, but just be aware that these too, may pose as a fire hazard. You can also just provide warmed water two or three times a day during prolonged cold snaps.

5.) Don’t forget to clean your coop regularly in winter since chickens may be spending more time inside. Using our Stall Guard can help eliminate odor and moisture all year-round.

6.) If your chickens have large combs, applying a thin coat of petroleum jelly can help guard against frostbite. If you have roosters, you will likely want to apply petroleum jelly to their wattle for the same reason. 

7.) Keep in mind that late autumn is the time when most chickens go through their annual molt. They won’t be laying eggs during this time, but you may want to consider offering added vitamins/minerals such as our Organic Icelandic Kelp, which contains more than 70 minerals, vitamins, hormones, enzymes, and trace minerals. This will ensure they have the nutrients they need during molting as well as colder temperatures when nutrient needs may increase.

8.) Since most grasses have gone dormant in winter, chickens can benefit from added essential fatty acids in the diet as well. Try our Organic Whole Flaxseed for Poultry to keep your chickens healthy and to boost egg production.

9.) Even though cold weather has arrived in most parts of the country, parasites can still be a problem. Internal parasites can be eliminated year round by using our all natural WormGuard Plus Broad Spectrum for Poultry. It not only controls internal parasites, but it also contains organic whole flax seeds (see benefits above), probiotics to promote healthy digestion and pure grape seed extract to support a strong immune system. For external parasites control try our Poultry Dust, this 100% all natural, safe, and effective product eliminates lice and mites without the need for harmful chemicals.

Wishing you and your flock a happy and healthy fall and winter!

 

Sources

Cold Weather Chickens: 8 Things Not to Do in Winter

10 Winter Chicken Care Mistakes to Avoid

What if someone told you you’ve been feeding your beloved dogs and cats improperly all this time? And that it’s not the brand that matters, but feeding dry food at all that’s the problem? It might be hard to hear, but just as wolves and wildcats aren’t designed to eat dry kibble, neither are their descendants—our modern-day pets.

In recent years, there’s been much discussion about what makes up a species-appropriate diet for dogs and cats, and many people agree: raw is the way to go. 

Raw Diet for Dogs

A raw diet for dogs includes muscle meat, raw bones, and organs fed at 2.5% of your dog’s bodyweight. 

Meat should be always be completely raw, and it’s best to start by feeding only white meat (such as chicken, turkey, rabbit, or quail) as well as bone for the first week or two. After this transition period, you can begin adding red meat, organs, and raw eggs on occasion.

Note of caution: transitioning to a raw diet too quickly can lead to digestive upset and diarrhea. However, adding bone to your dog’s diet should help—just make sure to feed an appropriate sized bone for your dog’s size, such as chicken wing bones, drumsticks, or necks for small dogs and leg quarters, backs, or half breast for larger dogs. 

Adding Slippery Elm Powder and Probiotics during this transition period can also be helpful in preventing digestive upset.

Once your dog has fully transitioned (which takes approximately one month), he should be eating a variety of meats including the white meats mentioned above, plus pork, beef, lamb, deer, and/or goat, as well as nutritious organs such as liver, kidney, spleen, pancreas, and brain. It’s important to note, however, that organ meat should make up no more than 5% of your dog’s total diet. 

Some people may choose to include small amounts of raw vegetables, seeds, nuts, and fruits in their dog’s diet. These can include kale, spinach, sprouts, and broccoli; sunflower, hemp seeds, pumpkin seeds, and almonds; blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and mulberries. 

 

Raw Diet for Cats

The raw diet for cats is similar to that for dogs, with the exception the optional non-meat foods. Cats need to eat 3% of their bodyweight of meat, bone, and organs daily. They may be pickier about transitioning, but can usually do so more quickly than dogs. Always keep an eye on their stool as a guide though. As with dogs, adding Slippery Elm Powder can be beneficial.

When first transitioning your cat to a raw diet, start with bland white meat and bone. After about four days, you can introduce red meats such as pork, beef, or lamb. Adding raw eggs is also fine. If your cat doesn’t experience diarrhea, you can add organ meats after four more days.

Feeding a raw, species appropriate diet will take commitment on your part as well as patience while your pet transitions away from dry kibble food. Three important things to keep in mind are this: feed variety, feed appropriate amounts, and always use good hygiene. Safe handling of raw meats and cleaning prep areas and food bowls will be an important part of keeping both you and your pet healthy.

 

 

Sources:

BARF Diet

Raw Feeding Transition Guide for Dogs

Should You Feed Your Cat a Raw Diet?