The Holistic Horse Blog

The horse’s digestive system may seem quite “delicate”, but what is it that makes them prone to issues like colic, laminitis, and gastric ulcers? The answer to this question can be found the anatomy of their digestive system as well as how it functions. 

Horses evolved to move and graze, eating small meals for about 16 hours each day. They are non-ruminant, simple-stomached herbivores and hindgut fermenters, meaning fiber is mostly fermented in the large intestine. This makes them different from ruminants such as cattle, goats, and sheep which are foregut fermenters with a rumen and multi-compartment stomach. 

The Equine Foregut

Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash

The equine foregut is relatively small when compared to their hindgut. It consists of the mouth, esophagus, stomach, and small intestine. The mouth is, of course, where digestion begins as the horse chews food to reduce the particle size. Horses produce 9-10 gallons of saliva per day as they chew their food which lubricates food particles and creates a bolus—a round mass of food that is easier to swallow. Saliva also helps to buffer acid produced in the stomach. 

After leaving the mouth, food travels through the pharynx, into the esophagus, and continues onto the stomach, which can hold about 3-5 gallons.

In the stomach, chemical digestion continues, thanks to the acid continually produced there. However, if horses go for long periods of time without forage, this acid can eat away at the stomach lining, causing ulcers. 

From the stomach, food travels into the small intestine where enzymes further digest carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. Since horses don’t have a gallbladder, the liver secretes bile to aid with fat digestion. 

Large grain meals may pass through the entire foregut without being properly digested, causing a disruption of the microbes living in the hindgut. This can lead to gas, colic, and laminitis. 

The Horse’s Hindgut

The horse’s hindgut is much larger than the foregut, consisting of the cecum, large colon, small colon, and rectum. The hindgut is where structural carbohydrates from forage are fermented by microbes. Volatile fatty acids (VFAs) are produced as a byproduct of this process, providing energy for the horse. 

The microbial population in the hindgut is very sensitive and any sudden change in feed, grass, or hay can lead to changes in the pH and cause problems like colic or laminitis. This is why all diet changes should be made slowly, over a period of 7-10 days. 

After leaving the small intestine, food, now called digesta, enters the cecum, a large mixing vat that can hold 7-10 gallons and slows the passage of digesta, allowing microbes up to seven hours to digest fiber.  

After leaving the cecum, digesta enters the large colon which can hold about 20 gallons. Microbial fermentation continues, producing VFAs, methane, ammonia, B-vitamins, and amino acids. Minerals such as sodium, chloride, and potassium are also absorbed in the large colon. Digesta may take 2-3 days to pass through the large colon but it finally moves to the small colon where water is absorbed and fecal balls of waste products are formed to move toward the rectum. 

Products to Support Your Horse’s Digestive System

Though horses are prone to digestive upset, the good news is that there are a number of products designed to protect and support this delicate system. For example, Pro-Guard Probiotics contains beneficial microbes to support digestion and is especially important to feed after a horse has been on antibiotics. 

Slippery Elm soothes inflammation of the stomach and intestinal tract and is especially helpful when ulcers are suspected or diagnosed. 

Bentonite Clay has detoxifying properties and is helpful for horses with diarrhea, fecal water syndrome, or loose stool. 

And finally, Gastrox helps to heal stomach ulcers naturally and without the side effects of pharmaceutical medications. 

Have you ever seen an animal rolling around in the dirt and wondered just why on earth they do that? Is it just for fun? To scratch an itch? Or is there a more important reason? 

Dust bathing is exactly what it sounds like—when an animal rolls or moves around in dirt or sand. Biologists classify it as a “maintenance behavior” and the main purpose is thought to be for removing parasites such as mites and fleas from the fur, feathers, or skin. For some animals, it may also serve as a way to transmit pheromones onto the ground to mark their territory. As strange as it may sound, dust bathing also appears to help keep an animal’s feathers or hair coat clean and healthy!

Birds

Birds will squat close to the ground to take a dust bath, wriggling their bodies and flapping their wings to stir up the dust. This allows it get in between their feathers and reach the skin. This is usually followed by shaking to further ruffle the feathers and then birds will often preen themselves with their bill. 

Domestic chickens love to dust bathe. They will scratch at the ground with their feet or bills, then squat into the dust, shaking their wings, rubbing their head, raking their bill, and scratching with one leg. As with other bird species, dust collects between the feathers and is then shaken off. 

Chickens will dust bathe just about anywhere so you will want to create an ideal environment rather than have them dust bathe in their own manure. One healthy option is to provide Poultry Dust in a pan or tray which will help ensure external parasite removal and allow them to participate in natural dust bathing behaviors. 

Mammals

Many different mammal species like to roll in dirt or sand, which may also help with parasites or help them to dry off after exercise or getting wet. Dust bathing in mammals may also be a way of aiding with thermoregulation, sun protection, and scent-marking. 

Some mammals that dust bathe include:

• Bison
• Cape ground squirrel
• Chinchilla
• Domestic cat
• Domestic dog
• Elephant
• Gerbil
• Hamster
• Horse
• Kangaroo rat
• Llama
• Pig
• Prairie dog

If you keep any of these animals as pets or farm animals, it’s important that you allow them to dust bathe as they please. Horses need out of stalls and small pens so they have room to roll, preferably in dirt or a sandy area. The same goes for llamas, dogs, and cats. 

Hamsters, gerbils, and chinchillas prefer to dust bathe in sand. They will dig and even play in it. Sand baths help to decrease natural oils and dirt that may accumulate in your hamster or gerbil’s coat and may also deter parasites. The best way to provide a sand bath is to fill a small dish with sand and place it in your pet’s enclosure. 

Another dust bathing option for hamsters, gerbils, and chinchillas is Goldbath Dust for Chinchillas which will help them keep their coat shiny and clean. Depending on your pet’s interest in dust bathing, you can offer a sand bath several times a week. 

If you have pets or livestock, you’ve likely thought about the problem of parasites before. After all, we’re accustomed to administering some type of dewormer to our animals on a regular basis. But have you ever considered that people can get intestinal parasites as well?

As much as we may not want to think that this is true, it’s a fact. A long list of worm parasites can affect people, including roundworm, flatworm, hookworm, tapeworm, and whipworm.

Signs of Intestinal Parasites in People

Parasites can live in the intestines for years without causing symptoms, but at times, they do cause symptoms including:

• abdominal pain
• diarrhea
• nausea or vomiting
• gas and bloating
• dysentary (loose stools containing blood and mucus)
• rash or itching around the rectum or vulva
• fatigue
• weight loss
• passing a worm in stool

In addition, tapeworms can cause these symptoms:

• lumps or bumps under the skin
• allergic reaction
• fever
• neurological problems such as seizures

Diagnosing Intestinal Parasites in People

Traditional doctors may not consider parasites as a cause to the above symptoms but you can ask for fecal testing that may identify some types of parasites. 

Other diagnostic tests include:

• Blood tests can be used to detect some types of parasites that migrate to the blood; and
• Tape test: this involves placing clear tape around the anus. The tape can be examined under a microscope for the presence of pinworms or their eggs.

Treating Intestinal Parasites in People

Even without a diagnosis, there are a number of holistic remedies you can use to self-treat if you believe you may have intestinal parasites. Some of these include:

• Avoiding simple carbohydrates from refined foods, many types of fruit, juices, dairy products, and all sugars except honey;
• Eating more raw garlic, pumpkin seeds, pomegranates, beets, and carrots, which have anti-parasitic properties;
• Drinking plenty of water to flush out your system;
• Eating plenty of fiber which may help to flush out worms;
• Taking probiotics; and
• Taking digestive enzymes.

DiaGuard for People

Another way to treat intestinal parasites is to take DiaGuard for People, a completely safe, 100% natural non-chemical dewormer. While DiaGuard is deadly to parasites, it is completely safe for use in people, animals, and on plants. This product kills parasites by puncturing their exoskeleton, disrupting the soft waxy shell structure, perforating the digestive organs, and causing death in a short time.

DiaGuard is made from food grade Diatomaceous Earth which is completely safe to take internally. However, you should take care not to breathe in too much Diatomaceous Earth dust, as it may cause respiratory discomfort. To use DiaGuard, take a level tablespoon of powder in a glass of filtered water twice daily for 30 days. This can be done twice a year.

Food grade Diatomaceous Earth also detoxifies the body. It has been reported in scientific literature to absorb methyl mercury, e-coli, endotoxins, viruses, organophosphate pesticide residues, drug resides, and protein, perhaps even the proteinaceous toxins produced by some intestinal infections.

If you are concerned about intestinal parasites, it couldn’t hurt to take DiaGuard for People, as it has many other benefits too!

If you live in a rural area, your home likely has a septic system, which is essentially an onsite sewage treatment facility. As such, it will need some maintenance.  

The good news is that caring for a septic system isn’t complicated. However, if you don’t maintain your septic system, it could end up costing you a lot of money. In other words, it may need to be dug up and replaced. 

Most septic systems need to be pumped every 3-5 years. However, in between pumping, here are some tips to keep your things functioning smoothly.

Monitor Solid Amounts

To prevent your system from becoming overwhelmed, it’s a good idea to monitor the amount of solids in the tank at least every six months. This can be done by dipping a long stick into the tank to measure the thickness of accumulated solids near the outlet baffle. If the sludge layer is up to 25-33% of the liquid capacity, it’s time to pump. 

Spread Out Laundry and Dishwashing Usage

Too much water all at once isn’t good for your septic system and could lead to flooding of the drainfield, so rather than having a designated laundry day, when you likely run your dishwasher at the same time, spread out washing throughout the week in order to decrease stress on the septic system. 

Toss it, Don’t Flush It!

The only thing that should be flushed down your toilet aside from bodily waste is toilet paper. No tissues, diapers, feminine products, etc. Toilet paper is designed to break down in a septic tank; other items are not.

Careful with the Kitchen Sink

Like your toilet, your sink is not a trash can. With that in mind, never allow things like coffee grounds, eggshells, medications, produce stickers, or flour to be washed down your drain as these can all clog up pipes or block screens. Cooking oil, grease, and fat can also clog up pipes, and dairy products aren’t broken down well in a septic tank. Lastly, keep in mind that garbage disposals grind up food which will be added to the layer of solids in the septic tank, so when in doubt, throw it out!

Say No to Chemicals

Harsh cleaning products, including bleach and drain cleaners, can harm the good bacteria in a septic system, so always opt for natural or plant-based cleaning products instead. A great option is BioGuard Plus Septic Tank Digester and Drain Cleaner from The Holistic Horse. A digester and drain cleaner in one, this product comes in a safe, dry form. It’s composed of microbial cultures and enzymes that consume organic waste. It is also organic, biodegradable, and non-pathogenic. 

For tough clogs in which a plunger doesn’t work, try a drain snake (which can also be used on sinks).

Protect Your Drainfield

Along with being mindful of what you flush down your toilets or send down your sinks, protect your drainfield area as well. This means no parking or driving vehicles over the area and don’t plant trees or shrubs in the area, as roots may interfere with pipes. 

A well maintained septic system can last indefinitely, so follow the above tips to keep yours around for the long haul!

Omega fatty acids may not be a major concern for many horse guardians, but the fact is they play a very important role in both our horses as well as our own health. 

There are three main types of omegas: 3, 6, and 9. Omegas 3 and 6 are considered essential fatty acids (EFAs) because the body cannot manufacture them on its own. The lesser talked-about omega 9 fatty acids are described as non-essential because the body can synthesize them from other foods in the diet.

Omegas are important for horses because they help to:

• Balance immune function;
• Protect joints and ligaments;
• Reduce airway inflammation;
• Support gastrointestinal function;
• Reduce skin allergies; and
• Decrease nervousness.

Your horse may be getting plenty of omegas from his diet already, but what we should be more concerned with is the type and ratio of the omegas he’s consuming.

Though researchers haven’t yet determined an exact ratio for horses, it’s thought that somewhere between 2 – 5:1 omega 3 to omega 6 is best. The main thing to keep in mind is that your horse should be getting MORE omega 3 than omega 6 in his overall diet.

Omega 3

Omega 3s are typically seen as the good guys because they are known to be anti-inflammatory. They are critical for brain function, and they also aid in healing the body after injury or intense exercise. For horses, the best source for omega 3 is fresh, green grass. When grass is cut and dried for hay, however, it loses its omega content. If your horse is on green pasture 24/7, he’s getting 6 to 20 times more omega 3s than omega 6s. However, horses on grain/hay diets get the exact opposite.

Supplementing with a good omega 3 source like our Organic Stone Ground Flaxseed is called for in instances such as this.

Omega 6

Horses require a lesser amount of this essential fatty acid and though omega 6 often gets a bad rap because it is known for causing inflammation and immune system reactions, it is also necessary to stabilize injuries and fight off infections. So in reality, omega 6 isn’t bad; you just don’t want to overdo it with omega 6. 

The following foods are high in omega 6 and should only be fed in limited amounts (and only in conjunction with higher amounts of omega 3):

• grains;
• vegetable and corn oil;
• sunflower seeds; and
• rice bran.

Again, horses on green pasture are likely fine when it comes to their omega intake, but supplementation of omega 3 rich ingredients is necessary for those who aren’t. Older horses who might have difficulty utilizing the omegas they consume in grass and feeds may benefit from supplementation as well.  

Sources

Supplementing Horse Diets with Omega Fatty Acids

Horse Journal: Guide to Equine Supplements and Nutraceuticals (book)

Omega Fatty Acids Are Health Benefits for Horses

Omega, OMG!

Omega Fatty Acids: What do they do for Horses?

Nutrition Tip: The Best Sources for Omega 3 Fatty Acids

Salt is an important mineral that all horses need year round and while many people consider salt blocks to be a good way to salt for their horse, there are actually better options. 

Why Horses Need Salt

Sodium is the primary electrolyte found in blood as well as the fluid surrounding cells. It is necessary for the production and secretion of bodily fluids such as sweat, saliva, intestinal tract fluids, urine, and mucus. Additionally, sodium is also necessary for proper nerve, digestion, and muscle function. 

If sodium levels are low, the blood won’t hold enough water. This causes the adrenal gland to release aldosterone, which tells the kidneys to hold on to sodium and excrete potassium in its place. As you might expect, this leads to an electrolyte imbalance within the body. 

A lack of sodium in the diet can promote or exacerbate conditions such as anhidrosis, tying up, and a rapid heart rate. It can also diminish a horse’s thirst since the body doesn’t want to flush away any more sodium. 

Feeding salt during cold weather is especially important since salt intake promotes drinking–which in turn keeps the digestive tract moving smoothly and helps to prevent impaction colic.

Why Salt Blocks Aren’t Optimal for Horses

Salt blocks were actually designed for cattle, who have rougher tongues. And while it’s okay to have a block in your horse pasture, you should not rely on it solely to provide sodium and chloride needs for your horse. For one, it’s impossible to monitor daily consumption. Horses also have smoother tongues and may not be able to get their needed amount of salt from the block. Additionally, they may end up biting the block in an attempt to get more salt, which may lead to dental and/or jaw problems. 

Horses need about 1-2 ounces of salt per day, and if they’re in work or sweating from hot weather, that amount may increase to 4-6 ounces.  A horse that is salt deficient may lick or chew on objects around the barn or pasture or may even lick or eat dirt.

If you use a salt block at all, purchase the plain, white block instead of a red mineral block which has other minerals added as well. Your horse may not need the extra minerals provided by a red block and it may also decrease the amount of salt he consumes.

Loose Salt is Best

Providing loose salt is best for horses. However, when purchasing loose salt, make sure you are getting the kind that is intended for animal consumption (and not for de-icing). The Holistic Horse recommends feeding our Pure Unrefined Sea Salt free choice. However, if your  horse doesn’t eat the salt free choice within the first few weeks, add a few tablespoons daily to his feed while still keeping salt out free choice in a hanging feeder bucket at all times. Once the horse starts eating it free choice, there is no need to continue adding to feed daily anymore.

If you haven’t heard of diatomaceous earth (DE, for short), you’re probably not alone. But this natural ingredient has been gaining in popularity over the last decade or so for several primary reasons: it’s affordable, effective, and an extremely versatile product to use around the farm. 

DE is a finely ground powder made from the sediment of fossilized algae (diatoms) that have accumulated in rivers, streams, lakes, and oceans. It was used by the ancient Greeks to make building materials and later, in Europe, for various industrial uses. 

DE is high in silica (80-90%), which has many proven health benefits including helping to maintain the health of bones and joints, connective tissue, skin, the immune system, the digestive system, and more. Because of this, DE is commonly used in many skincare products, in toothpaste, as well as in dietary supplements. 

DE Uses Around the Farm

DE has many uses around the farm as well, but its most common use is as a natural insecticide. In fact, DE has been found to kill bed bugs, cockroaches, crickets, fleas, ticks, spiders, and other pests. Food grade DE is not poisonous and does not need to be eaten by the insects in order to be effective. Because the tiny diatoms have sharp edges, they slice into the insect’s exoskeleton and cause them to dry out and die. 

Because of this ability to kill insects, DE is the primary ingredient in The Holistic Horse’s products FlyDie, AntDie, StallGuard, and PastureGuard, which target pests found around the barn, pasture, and yard. 

DE can also be used directly on your pet’s skin to kill fleas. FleaGuard for Dogs uses DE as well as flea-repelling essential oils in order to help eliminate fleas. DE is also used in KennelGuard SC to help eliminate urine, odor, moisture, as well as flies from dog kennels. 

FleaGuard for Cats is designed to be used directly on your cat’s hair coat to eliminate fleas (only without the essential oils which are toxic to cats). 

DE is also commonly used as an all natural deworming product for horses, livestock, and pets. It works in the same manner, the abrasive diatoms slicing into the worms and killing them. It also helps to detoxify the horse’s body, supporting a strong immune system which will help to prevent heavy worm burdens in the first place. All of The Holistic Horse’s equine deworming products contain DE. They include: 

• WormGuard SC Plus for Horses;
• Omni WormGuard Plus for Horses;
• Omni WormGuard Plus for Senior Horses;
• DiaGuard for Horses; and
• MarePrep.

You will also find DE in THH’s deworming products for other animals including cattle, llamas, alpacas, goats, chickens, pigs, ferrets, chinchillas, and guinea pigs. 

The great thing about using DE around the farm is that it’s virtually non-toxic to fish, birds, aquatic animals, and other wildlife. Therefore, you can feel good about using it. 

If you choose to purchase straight diatomaceous earth, make sure to buy the food-grade version, as opposed to the pool-grade form which is toxic if ingested. Also, take care not to inhale DE as it can cause lung irritation. 

Like us, our dogs are no strangers to experiencing allergies. You may notice it as sneezing or watery eyes, or more likely, your dog will have itchy or irritated skin. The first step with an allergic dog is to try to determine what may be causing the allergic reaction and work to eliminate the allergen from your dog’s diet or environment. 

What are Allergies Exactly? 

Allergies occur when the immune system reacts to a foreign substance. It could be pollen, food ingredients, flea saliva, mold, or a number of different things. Essentially, allergies are a type of hypersensitive reaction to these normally harmless substances and are due to an imbalance within the immune system.

However, the immune reactions involved in allergies are complex. The process usually involves allergen protein molecules combining with antibodies in the blood, which then attach to mast cells found in many tissues throughout the body. When the antigen and antibody react with mast cells, histamines are often released. This causes local inflammation, redness, swelling, and itching, as well as other types of symptoms.  

Many things can cause an allergic reaction in dogs, but the most common types of allergies involve food allergies.

Allergy Symptoms in Dogs

The most common symptom associated with allergies in dogs is itchy skin. Allergies can also involve the respiratory system, causing coughing, sneezing, or wheezing and dogs may have runny discharge from the eyes or nose. However, allergies can also affect the digestive tract, resulting in vomiting and/or diarrhea. 

How to Naturally Support Your Dog with Allergies

Along with trying to find the source of the allergen and remove it from your dog’s environment, supporting the immune system is also important in helping relieve your dog’s allergy symptoms. Antibiotics and steroids are commonly used to treat allergies in traditional settings, and though they may be needed in some instances, these treatments tend to only provide temporary relief. Nutrition and complimentary therapies are often more effective; however, keep in mind that allergies can often take months or longer to improve. 

The most important thing you can do is feed a high-quality, species appropriate diet. Raw or home-cooked foods are best. If you can’t do this, then feed the highest quality dog food you can afford and supplement with healthy, fresh foods whenever possible. Keep in mind that wheat, soy, corn, and other grains are common allergens for dogs, so it’s best to eliminate them from the diet completely. Beef and chicken are also common sources of allergies so try varied proteins such as lamb, venison or salmon.

In conjunction with feeding a high quality diet, several supplements you can incorporate into your dog’s diet in order to provide even more support for the immune system include: 

• Immune Boost for Dogs: Formulated to strengthen and keep the immune system functioning at peak performance, this product can be used as a daily maintenance supplement, or during times of increased risk of illness or allergies;

• Flaxseed for Cats & Dogs: An excellent source of Omega-3 and 6 essential fatty acids which support the immune system and reduce inflammation and itching; and

• Antioxidants and natural anti-inflammatories such as quercetin and pycnogenol, as well as vitamins C and E. 
• Our Organic Icelandic Kelp and Bee Pollen can also be helpful for allergies.

Sources

Allergies in Dogs

A Holistic Approach to Canine Allergies